Esquire's Best New Restaurant 2017

Welcome home. We mean the home of chef Peter Cho and wife Sun Young Park and their family, including Cho’s mother, who’s in the kitchen wrapping dumplings. You’re in their backyard. There are babies and dogs; there’s a Pacific Northwest breeze. As the banchan begin to arrive—little heaps of kimchi, asparagus, sweet potatoes—you realize you’ve never felt less rushed in a restaurant. When the pork belly arrives, befunked with koji and roasted patiently toward meltiness, you hope these nice folks will let you stick around all night.

Welcome home. We mean the home of chef Peter Cho and wife Sun Young Park and their family, including Cho’s mother, who’s in the kitchen wrapping dumplings. You’re in their backyard. There are babies and dogs; there’s a Pacific Northwest breeze. As the banchan begin to arrive—little heaps of kimchi, asparagus, sweet potatoes—you realize you’ve never felt less rushed in a restaurant. When the pork belly arrives, befunked with koji and roasted patiently toward meltiness, you hope these nice folks will let you stick around all night.